First Steps

Gapping the Doors

Work on the actual kit parts has begun! As promised last post, I did a rough test fit of the resin parts that make up the monocoque and body panels. The fit is good (the rear cover just needs some bits of flash cleaned up). I also realised that I only really need the monocoque (RE3) and side pods (RE4 and RE5) to fit the doors.

I have taken my measurements from the assembled body, and updated my design for the display base… and for the LED wiring harness which had to be changed to accomodate.

I have fit the doors to the monocoque (RE3). I did this with the temorary supports still in place; the upper supports I removed before I fit the window sections. Gapping the doors was done by bending them, adding epoxy glue as filler on some edges (more detail on that below), and filing the sides and top to get a better match to the body lines.

I did need to permanently assemble the doors – it was the only way to bend and test fit things properly. Also, it turns out turns out there is a tiny bit of painted finish, just in the rear corner of the window frame, that needs to be blended into the door lower.

I am happy with the results. The doors are shown here ready to be primed. Their positions in RE3 will be improved a little bit more when they are fixed in place permanently.

On Epoxy

A side note about my favourite glue, possibly ever: Permatex Steel Weld Epoxy in the syringe pack. Somewhere on the internet I saw this stuff reccomended for white metal joins. I use it for metal-to-metal joins in white metal, brass, aluminium, etc., parts. I have had poor results with CA glues on brass in particular, although they seem to work OK with white metal.

This stuff sets fast, cures hard, and once fully cured can be filed, sanded, drilled, threaded. I have been able to fill holes that were slightly off, re-drill them, and the drill won’t follow the original hole. I also like the Steel Weld as it sands well, I find it slightly softer than the surrounding white metal.

My favourite use for the Steel Weld is as a filler on metal and resin parts. You can blob on the epoxy to build up an edge, then correct it once cured. If you’re quick, you can cut the partially-cured epoxy to rough shape. If the parts are clean, this stuff will stick well even when sanded to a thin section.

I have no arrangement with Permatex, I just like their glues. I buy it from the autoparts store like everyone else.

3 thoughts on “First Steps

  1. Hi gtziaf. While I do love Steel Weld as a filler on resin or metal, I do NOT use it for gluing metal-to-resin or resin-to-resin. For resin-to-resin and joints across materials (metal-to-resin, also vacuum formed plastic to resin) I use Permatex 5 minute or 30 minute epoxy. The 5 minute stuff is my preferred, but if I need more time to align parts I use the 30 minute stuff.


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