First off, here is the ‘Build Flow’. This set of diagrams describes how I plan to prepare and paint each part, by showng how the various layers of primer / paint / clear coats / decals / weathering / etc are to be built up. The general case looks like this:
There are a series of special cases for some treatments, which are all listed in the Visio file on the Documentation page; I have also added a web viewer link on the right. As an example, below is the special case for the body colour. Various parts of the body are fluorescent orange, green, black or silver – all in lacquers with a polished gloss topcoat.
The Build Flow also includes my thoughts on treating parts that get a carbon fibre look. The real parts tend to have a shiny surface on the mold side, where the weave is also visible. The other side is a flat dark grey or black and doesn’t show the weave (well, not at 1/12 scale). The cut edges are also a flat dark grey or black.
With the Colour Table and Build Flow done, we now know what paints we need to buy – including primers, and also various thinners for the acrylic, enasmel and lacquer paints. We can also get all the other consumables – putty, glues, sanding and polishing materials, decal solutions, airbrush cleaner, masking tape, etc. Put all of the consumables together and it looks like this (!):
Well, for my second attempt it would look a bit different… I have moved away from Tamiya sprays, both for primers and colour coats. These days I prefer Mr Color Surfacer in Grey/Black/White and Mr Color lacquers. I’m also trying out some SMS lacquer paints.
In fact, paint prep isn’t quite done; there are a bunch of treatments I need to test out before I decide exactly how to model them. In future posts I will show you how all these worked out, and I will make updates that will be reflected on the Documentation page.
Most of these tests have been completed, successfully or otherwise, so I have included my results for them.
|Test the coverage of the orange/green body colours: Will the green (Renown Green Lacquer) cover the white+orange (Renown Fluorescent Orange Lacquer), or vice versa? This will determine the order of painting/masking the body colours.||Previous tests showed that green over orange wasn’t perfect, but it was the most viable option – paint orange, mask, then green over. More useful was putting a base orange down before the fluro orange, unless you want to put down 6+ coats of fluro orange, plus green, plus clear on the body.|
I will be testing some new paints to find a good colour that doesn’t involve decanting Tamiya spray paints.
|Check that the Mr Color Super Clear (Gloss Clear Lacquer) will go over the Zero Paints successfully.||It does! Mr Color clears go great over every lacquer I’ve tried.|
|Test whether Flat Black or Flat Grey Black is the better base colour for the carbon fibre decals. I also want to try out gloss versus semi-gloss topcoats for these treatments.||Black works better; there’s too much mucking about trying to do a grey ‘underside’ on complex shapes.|
|Test if the vacuum formed parts can be successfully clear-coated in Gloss Clear.||My experience suggests trying NOT to need to clearcoat these parts. That said, if they need to be painted, I have had much better results with lacquers as the acrylics tend to bead on the shiny surface.|
|Test the options for the black parts of the door windows (GFrit) – black decal film or black polycarbonate paint. I also want to see how these finishes work on the inside versus the outside of the vaccuum formed part.||My current plan is to paint these black, with lacquers. I am still working out if I can paint them on the inside or outside surface of the windows.|
|I could only source black or white ‘mesh hose’ (fibreglass silicon tube, actually), so I need to test if it can successfully be painted the correct grey.||Silicon tube can’t be painted, it’s silicon: the paint dries then falls off. I found that KA Models and others make mesh hose in black… so I bought that.|
|Test out making Bronze Metallic with a ‘medium coat’ over bare white metal.||The bronze was the wrong colour, but I had success with light coats of brown over bare metal.|
|Try out the Zero Paints texture paint for the seat and steering wheel (FFabric), and see how it works with Gloss Clear, a decal, and Flat Clear on top.||Zero Paints textured paint works great. I bought the charcoal colour, but it takes an acrylic colour coat over the top just fine.|